The LVMH-owned hospitality group takes travellers down nostalgia lane through Malaysia’s dense and lush forest on a four-day train trip. Here’s my review.
The luxury train’s initial rocking and jostling gave way as the State Cabin’s surprisingly comfy pullover bed immediately lulled me into a deep sleep. By the next day, I had awoken in the state of Pahang, Malaysia, having left from Woodlands train station in Singapore. Having recently relaunched after a period of refinement, the Eastern & Oriental Express, a Belmond Train, now operates with a seamlessness that belies its relatively recent return to service. It first started hitting the rails in 1991 and had stopped its services due to the COVID pandemic. A deliberate four-year pause then allowed for meticulous restoration and a profound infusion of care.
My friend, Kelly Lin, a talented documentary producer at Sorahouse – my favourite sleepover buddy, as I like to call her – and I were onboard its Wild Malaysia excursion, which runs from March to October. Travellers will get to step foot into Taman Negara, Malaysia’s well-loved National Park which houses both inactive and active caves like Gua Sisik Naga (Dragon’s Scales Cave) and Gua Tahi Bintang (Shooting Star Cave) and learn about the caves’ formations. After squeezing in through some tight spaces, watching thousands of bats fly over our heads, mouthing ‘ooh’ and ‘aahs’ to snakes’ shedding skins, seeing how our tiny human feet filled a fossilised elephant’s track and admiring flickering stones, we stopped for a little afternoon delight of wine and cheese, thanks to the Belmond team who went all out with a spread for us. A little wine won’t hurt anyone outside the caves.
Kelly, who went on a separate Capturing Wild Malaysia tour, got to learn more about flowers, edible leaves with medicinal benefits, and even spotting gibbons producing hoo calls in the trees.
Another group of travellers joined a tour on wildlife conservation efforts by specialist wildlife guides on how to spot tiger’s markings on ground and trees.
It was a wonderful stop in the oldest known primary rainforest in the world, which is said to be 130 million years ago.
Like a clockwork, the restaurant staff like Farouq and my steward Sebastian ensured our needs were met 24/7 — from breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea to dinner. Even when we only wanted just a coffee in the cabin, not one request is a small one.
Every day Kelly and I were given restaurant tickets that dictate which one of the two restaurants we were going to sit in, and sometimes we were seated with other guests. We had some memorable conversations with a couple, Tobias and Sonia, whose children had left the nest, and so, booking this trip “just three weeks ago” was spontaneous enough. Another solo traveller, a Hong Kong-born and working in Singapore, wanted to treat herself with a luxury experience instead of getting a piece of jewellery for her birthday.
The Adisorn restaurant is draped in green that’s reminiscent of Malaysia’s plantations while the other dining car Malaya has more of a traditional Batik inspiration with red hues. Both equally stunning against polished wood panelling, Malaysian embroidery and light wood design inlays.
I’m particularly thrilled that the menu for the restaurants is helmed by Chef Andre Chiang, the visionary founder of the acclaimed two-Michelin star Raw. His choice for using spices and the occasional heat in dishes like the laksa bouillabaisse and Penang duck curry did not disappoint. The curry was reminiscent of the Panaeng curry I had in Khao Lak a week before this trip, and it turns out Chef Andre could be inspired by his wife whose roots lie deeply in Thailand. I absolutely loved it, and hope it remains a staple in the menu. There were also other standout starters like the otah piquillo pepper stuffed with herbs and the crispy tofu mikado spring roll that I could have ten more of.
Conversations flowed as wines poured and chatters filled both cabins. The gentle pitter-patter of rain against the window panes created a soothing and immersive soundscape. If I could write a poem in Bahasa Malaysia, it would probably describe the lush green forest beckoning us with whispers of folklore tales and talking animals.
The piano bar comes alive after dinner as every night either a duo of singer-pianist or pianist-saxophonist delighted guests. I even had my hand at karaoke close to the observation deck, belting out Kylie Minogue and Britney Spears songs before someone started screaming into 4 Non Blondes’ ‘What’s Up.’ It was then, I decided it was bedtime.
The train chugged along, leaving Pahang for Kuala Lumpur, then made its way up to Penang, where George Town, the UNESCO world heritage site awaits. Here, Kelly and I hopped onto our Vespas and rode around town with our drivers in search for the best street food. We started at Cecil Food Market, and made our way to Cheah Kongsi Temple to observe its beautiful architecture, then to ChinaHouse that houses small exhibitions and cakes I can’t get enough of. We also scooted off to Chew Jetty to view rustic wooden homes built on stilts over the sea. Our last stop was at Gerak Budaya where I picked up a book entitled, ‘Beguiled on Larut Hills’ by Liew Suet Fun.
As the final night unfolded, the ephemeral magic began to dissipate, leaving a distinct sense of returning to the tangible world.
Stepping aboard the Eastern & Oriental Express is like surrendering to a wave of nostalgia, where the train’s timeless charms evoke a bygone era of elegant adventure. The unhurried moments aboard invite either profound introspection or deeply connected conversations with your travel companion.
To book a trip, visit here.
