Stepping inside Maggie’s on 1 Keong Saik Road immediately transported me to old Hong Kong. The atmosphere conjured images of vibrant neon signs, and the rich culinary traditions of a bygone era. Every detail, from the decor to the food, made me feel as if I’d traveled back in time to experience the city’s golden age. Maggie’s is the latest iteration by Chef Ryan Nile Choo, who is also the chef partner of Marcy’s, a seafood bistro on Duxton Road.
Maggie’s clever twist on classic Chinese flavours is a great find for adventurous foodies. Imagine a pomfret fish that’s complemented with salsa verde or an iberico chop sprinkled with Banjing pepper – unusual and bold mix but it works. Intrigued, I reached out to Chef Ryan to find out his inspiration behind the inventive and “almost Chinese” bistro and his thoughts on sustaining a young restaurant like his, amidst Singapore’s current tough F&B scene.
Share with us your background leading to your career as a chef partner of Maggie’s.
I spent a few incredible years cooking in California, where I learned to listen closely to the rhythm of the seasons—how produce, flavour, and even mood shift throughout the year. I was especially drawn to the quiet rituals of foraging, and I had the privilege of working with a third-generation sushi master who helped me understand the depth and beauty of seafood and micro-seasonality.
When I moved back to Singapore, I brought all of that with me, an appreciation for nature, restraint, and sensitivity in cooking. I joined Marcy’s in 2021 and have been growing with the group ever since. Together, we realised there was space for a new kind of Chinese restaurant—one that celebrated nostalgia but didn’t cling to tradition too tightly. That seed eventually blossomed into Maggie’s: a bistro that’s playful, inventive, and proudly “Almost Chinese.” It’s where we reimagine regional flavours through a bold, modern lens, and every dish reflects the joy we find in that exploration.
I read that you were studying design. Was that a fallback career if being a chef didn’t work out?
Not at all! I’ve always been obsessed with design, how spaces make us feel, how beauty can be functional. But cooking felt more visceral to me, more alive. It’s where I feel most at home. That said, design and food don’t exist in separate worlds for me, they’re two halves of the same creative impulse. At Maggie’s, that fusion really comes alive. From the spatial flow of the restaurant to the way we plate a dish or curate a playlist, every detail is intentional.
Why did you choose to set up a base in Singapore, and not anywhere else?
Singapore is home. There’s an energy here that’s unlike anywhere else. After my time abroad, I came back with a new perspective (and a lot of fire). I wanted to be part of a generation of chefs who are helping Singaporean food evolve, not just preserving what came before but exploring what’s next.
Before the awards and the global spotlight, being a chef here was still seen as a bit of a gamble. But this work is deeply technical, deeply creative, and deeply human. It’s about science, culture, hospitality, and craft. I wanted to help shift that perception, to show younger chefs that this path is full of meaning, and joy.
Was your family supportive of your career choice? Was it difficult to win them over, given our typical Asian upbringing?
Let’s just say… it wasn’t a standing ovation at the start. My dad was open-minded, but my mum needed a little more convincing. In an Asian family where everyone else has “stable” careers, I was the odd one out, chasing something that felt a little risky and a lot uncertain.
There were awkward family gatherings, plenty of questions, and a fair bit of self-doubt. But over time, as they saw the work, the pride, the people who came to eat, I think they started to understand what it meant to me. Now, every time they introduce me as “my son, the chef,” it feels like a quiet, beautiful kind of full circle.
Why did you start Maggie’s, and where did the inspiration come from?
Maggie’s came from a place of love and a shared curiosity. Tong (Goh Tong Hann is the owner of PleasureCraft Group) and I wanted to build something that paid tribute to our cultural roots, but wasn’t bound by authenticity. We saw how “Chinese food” had been flattened into just a few recognisable formats, and we thought—what if we created a space to play, to provoke, to have fun with it?
We take inspiration from regional Chinese cooking, from the smoky funk of Hunan to the bright spice of Sichuan, and mix that with everything we’ve learned along the way, from Western kitchens to late-night Chinatown diners. Maggie’s is bold, cheeky, and a little irreverent, but every dish is grounded in serious craft. It’s a place where nostalgia meets invention, and we invite everyone to come along for the ride.
“Whether you’re 25 or 45, it’s never too late to choose joy, to pursue something that lights you up. It will be scary. You’ll doubt yourself. But if it’s rooted in love and intention, it will grow into something beautiful.”
Ryan Nile Choo
Are you a fan of Hong Kong movies? Because we sure are!
Absolutely! I love how cinematic and emotionally charged they are. There’s such a unique blend of glamour, grit, humour, and heartbreak, it’s all in there. We wanted Maggie’s to feel like that kind of movie: dramatic, moody, and full of memorable characters. Tong designed the space with that in mind, and I curated a playlist that moves like a film score, from the first martini to the last Negroni. It’s not just dinner, it’s a whole night out.
What were some of the best things your diners have said to you?
There was one guest who said, “This should be on the Asia’s 50 Best list already.” I laughed, but it meant the world. Others have told us Maggie’s reminds them of childhood, or makes them feel like they’ve stepped into another era. Those are the best compliments. Of course, recognition is lovely. But for me, nothing beats a full dining room, a table clinking glasses, and that hum of people really, truly enjoying themselves.
What were some of the challenges you had to face?
Time. Or the lack of it.
We had this big, beautiful idea, but a pretty tight window to bring it to life. Menu, interiors, recruitment, training—everything had to come together at once. It was chaotic, intense, but also thrilling.
We’d been dreaming of Maggie’s for a long time, and once we decided to go for it, there was no turning back. In a weird way, that pressure gave the place its energy. We had to be scrappy, creative, and a little mad. That energy is still in the bones of the restaurant.
With many F&B closures in Singapore, how do you think young restaurants like yours can survive?
It starts with people. Always.
The team is everything. Without them, there’s no Maggie’s. That means creating a culture of care. Fair hours, trust, space to grow. We don’t just talk about it, we live it. And in turn, our guests feel that warmth when they walk in. Beyond that, you’ve got to stay adaptable. Stay curious. Keep evolving without chasing trends. Know what you stand for and stick to it. And crucially, have fun with it. Guests can feel joy, and they’ll come back for it.
Any advice for aspiring entrepreneurs or those considering a mid-career change?
Yes! Do it. Seriously, take the leap. Whether you’re 25 or 45, it’s never too late to choose joy, to pursue something that lights you up. It will be scary. You’ll doubt yourself. But if it’s rooted in love and intention, it will grow into something beautiful. And to all the would-be chefs, designers, creatives out there: your voice matters. The world rewards those who take action—quickly.
Visit Maggie’s at 1 Keong Saik Rd., #01-04, Singapore 089109
